Photography

Accessories

Aside from the usual accessories that came with your camera like the batteries, memory card, lens cover, strap, pouch, charger, etc. there are other accessories you can buy that will enhance your camera's range and functionalities. For DSLR cameras, lenses are often not part of a standard package. Some may offer a basic lens but usually ends up back in the box or being sold once the user learns the limitations and the needs have grown beyond the useability of these lenses. Compacts and Sub-compact cameras also have accessories that allow them to go beyond their original design limitations.

Lens Adapters - For non-SLR cameras, these are attached to the camera to allow it to use standard sized filters or lenses. Different cameras have different adapters and different manufacturers offer different sizes depending on the most common add-ons for each particular camera.

Lens Adapters or Lens Converters for DSLR cameras refer to devices that allow a camera to use a lens that is designed with a different lens mount. A lens mount is the point of connection between the lens and the camera which allows the camera body to control the functions of the lens. Different camera manufacturers use different lens mounts so a Nikon camera can't use a Sony lens and a Minolta can't use a Pentax or a Canon Lens. The Lens adapter makes it possible to interchange lenses, some with limited compatibility while others can allow you to control all the functionalities of the lens.

Telephoto Conversion Lens - This is a lens kit that effectively increases the focal distance of the camera's lens by a certain factor. For DSLR cameras, telephoto conversion lenses are available for different models and are usually added before the main lens. Usual magnifications are 1.4x and 2.0x which means that it can increase the effective focal distance of a lens by 40% and 100% respectively. For an 18-55mm lens for example, if a 2.0x telephoto conversion lens is used, the overall effective zoom range becomes 36-110mm. The disadvantage of using these lenses is the reduction in the lens' aperture, usually by 1 or 2 stops, and the degradation of the quality of the images.

There are also telephoto conversion lenses available for compact and sub-compact cameras with fixed lens. They are mounted in front of the main lens' thread or on a lens adapter designed for each specific camera model. Usual magnifications are 1.4x, 1.5x, 1.6x, 1.7x, 2.0x, 2.2x, 3.0x, 5.0x and 8.0x. These lenses does a very good job specially for cameras with small zooms (6x or less) but is known to introduce significant distortions and degradation of quality on higher zooms.

Each camera manufacturer usually makes their own models of telephoto conversion lenses, however there are other companies that also manufacture good quality lenses such as Tamron, Sigma, Bower and Raynox.

Wide Angle Conversion Lens - Opposite to Telephoto Conversion, Wide Angle Conversion lenses reduces the focal distance of your lenses so it can work more effectively for wide angle shots. Wide angle lenses are available for DSLR or non-DSLR cameras. Usual magnification factors are 0.8x, 0.7x, 0.6x, 0.5x and 0.4x. Depending on the quality and design of the lenses most wide angle conversion lenses tend to introduce certain deformations such as fish-eye, or barrel distortion. This however have some artistic value for some photographers and some lens manufacturers even have models that are really intended for Fish-Eye effect.

Macro Conversion Lens - This is a conversion lens that magnifies the image and reduces the focusing distance of your lens while still able to use the longest end of its zoom, providing a much closer view of a scene. This is used for extreme close-up or macro photography where the entire frame can be filled with the image of a very small subject. The magnification of macro lenses are usually measured by the ratio of the actual size of a subject and the size of the image as it appears on a full frame (36x24) film or sensor. A ratio of 1:1 indicates that a subject that is 24mm high in real life fills the entire height of the screen.

Tripod / Monopod - A tripod is a three-legged camera stand that provides stability and elevation. There are different types of tripod, from the cheap table-top tripods to the most complex types made of very rigid materials that can be controlled remotely. Most tripods are made of high grade aluminum with 3-part collapsible telescopic legs that can be adjusted for proper elevation and leveling. The camera is usually attached to a detachable plate at the head of the tripod through a standard 1/4" thumb screw which is connected to a neck which can change elevation through a rack-and-pinion mechanism. The orientation of the camera can be adjusted in almost all axes either manually or through simple controls in the tripod.

Monopods are single-legged stands which is useful for photographers that are always on the go. Although the user still has to support the camera on the sides and orientation is often manual, the entire weight of the camera rests on the monopod so it still offers practically a great amount of stability.

Filters - These are special layers of glass or high quality plastic that are mounted in front of the camera lens to enhance the quality or provide special effects to your pictures. Here is a list of some commonly used filters:

Ultraviolet (UV) Filter - Used to absorb ultraviolet rays. It gives a cleaner, sharper picture with less haze. It is recommended to leave a UV filter on your camera lens at all times to protect the lens from dust, moisture, scratches, and breakage.

Linear / Circular Polarizer - Light rays travel with waves dispersed at all angles. A polarizer allows only light rays that travels at an angle that matches the angle of the polarizer to pass through. Among other things, a polarizer darken the sky, remove reflections from water, make foliage appear less shiny and significantly enhance the color saturation. The effect of the polarizer is at its maximum if the camera is pointed at 90 degrees from the position of the sun, pointing it farther or closer to the sun decreases the effect. There are two types of polarizers, the Linear and Circular. The main difference between a Linear and Circular polarizer is the addition of a "wave retardant" on the Circular polarizer. They both offer the same visual effect, but, for cameras that use a beam splitter for focusing and light metering, the reading becomes erroneous when using a linear polarizer, resulting in underexposed or improperly focused shots. The "wave retardant" on the Curcular polarizer solves this problem.

Graduated Filters - These filters are usually made of half shaded and half clear glasses with a smooth transition in between. This is used for balancing light on unevenly lit scenes such as a bright sky against a regular shaded landscape, or simply to provide a special lighting effect. These filters come in variety of shades, and width of blending area.

Diffusion Filter - Using a mesh of fine nets in special layers of glass, light can be selectively bent resulting in a slightly blurred image. This helps soften wrinkles on portraits or produce a dream-like effect. A variation of this filter is the Circular Diffusion filter and Center-Spot filter where the center is left clear to make the subject cleaer and sharp.

There are other specially designed filters that help enhance the quality of images or provide certain effects. Others would use a combination of filters to create a totally different effect but care has to be taken when stacking filters as this would also degrade the overall quality of detail of the image. Also, on most cases too much stacking of filters causes vignetting on the wide angle end of your lens.

Lens Hood - This is a lens extension that provides shade to the lens without causing vignetting. A lens hood helps eliminate lens flare and reduces unwanted glare from reflective surfaces within the photographed scene. This is most useful when there is a light source or a reflective surface in front of the camera outside of the viewing angle that causes flares from stray light to appear in the photos. There are two common types of lens hood, the round and petal or flower hood. A petal lens hood that is specifically designed for a certain camera gives the best result since it takes into account the actual ratio of the sensor and thus provides as much shade on the non-viewable parts.

External Flash - An external flash is very useful when the lighting of the scene is too low for the camera to get a good photo. DSLR cameras and some sub-compact cameras have an option to use an external Flash through a standard connector called "hot shoe". Various types of external flash are available with varying power outputs. Some flash units can be tilted to change the orientation angle of the flash which is useful for bouncing the flash off a reflector or through the ceiling instead of pointing it directly to the subject. This method reduces the sharp edged shadows and gives the scene a more subtle and natural-looking lighting.

For cameras that don't have a built-in "hot shoe", a Slave Flash that is triggered by the built-in flash of the camera will be useful. The Canon HF-DC1 is an example of a slave flash that can be mounted anywhere away from the camera without any physical connection. The flash is triggered when it detects a strong enough light or reflection from the flash of the camera. There are also optical flash triggers that are sold separately which can then be connected to a standard external flash.

Underwater Housing - This is a water resistant casing that allows you to bring the camera to a certain depth underwater. It is often designed for specific camera models and has specially sealed buttons that allow you to operate the most essential controls of your camera even underwater.